Ben: [Trying to lift me up so he can get my couch cushion for fort building] “Ugh. We need a forklift for Mommy”
Thanks, kiddo.
xo,
Sonja
Sunday, March 30, 2014
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Benisms vol 268
Ben: “Mommy, when we grow up we’re going to be scientists”.
Me: “Awesome, sounds good, buddy. What is daddy going to be?”
Ben: “A GARBAGE MAN!”
[Which, by the way, is the ultimate compliment in our household]
On a different note: Ben has assigned names to all his duplo figures. We’re currently on a farm kick so we have the following: Farmer Ben has a nice glossy head of black hair. Farmer Emma is a statuesque blond. Farmer Daddy has a sweet cowboy hat. And then there’s geriatric Farmer Mommy:
xo,
Sonja
Me: “Awesome, sounds good, buddy. What is daddy going to be?”
Ben: “A GARBAGE MAN!”
[Which, by the way, is the ultimate compliment in our household]
On a different note: Ben has assigned names to all his duplo figures. We’re currently on a farm kick so we have the following: Farmer Ben has a nice glossy head of black hair. Farmer Emma is a statuesque blond. Farmer Daddy has a sweet cowboy hat. And then there’s geriatric Farmer Mommy:
xo,
Sonja
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Africa Safari - Resources (Zambia and Botswana)
I’m in the process of updating my travel pages and decided that a list of resources for our Africa trip would be useful. We had a great experience and would definitely recommend both the Zambia hotel and the Botswana safari guide.
Botswana - Wilderness Safaris
First, a note about travel costs.
A close family friend has traveled to Africa many times and had some sage advice for us before we began planning our trip:
There are two kinds of safari travel in Africa: a) self-catering parks that are open to everyone and b) private reserves that cap their visitor numbers, but charge exorbitant fees.
South Africa, Tanzania, and Kenya have done an amazing job of appealing to many visitors and it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to visit their parks. A guide is not even a requirement for many of the larger areas. This appealed to us, especially as we originally wanted to include a climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) in our trip. Still want to do that, someday.
The drawback to this type of travel is that you might run into this:
As in, lots of people.
Our friend actually steered us towards Botswana, because they’ve gone entirely in the opposite direction. Most of their land is held by the government in managed reserves that they rent out to private companies on a long term basis. Numbers of visitors are capped by the lease agreement and a guide is required at all times. The benefit is that you have vast tracts of land occupied by very few people -you have the place entirely to yourself. Botswana has argued that it's significantly better for the animals and the environment as there are fewer people and consequently less needed infrastructure. The downside is that it’s shockingly expensive, as they’ve got to make up for fewer revenue-generating people.
But the solitude was delicious. Imagine days of trekking through the bush, bumping down dirt roads, and enjoying a sun dower besides a quiet river. Only a few other times during our 8-day safari did we run into another jeep.
The tour company that we used was called Wilderness Safaris and they were excellent. They lease several private reserves throughout Botswana and they even have their own airline to shuttle visitors between camps.
We journeyed on their cheapest adventure safari.Camps are spartan and composed of military tents and a large jeeps. More luxurious safaris are available; some of their camps come equipped with private cabanas, plunge pools, and private jeeps/guides.
Additionally, we were on a group tour which is always a bit of a risk as you never know who you’ll end up with. We lucked out and scored an awesome group of Aussies and Germans. Our guide Russell, was South African, and all the local guides were from Botswana.
Our accommodations ranged from movable military tents at Linyanti to the more permanent structures (see below) at Selinda Camp.
Beds were simple cots with down duvets (it gets cold at night) and a few camp chairs/hammocks.
Ready for a shower? Fill up your bucket.
We liked it, but it got stuck a lot, likely due to that long wheel base.
Eventually we stopped counting the number of times we piled out to begin a dig-out.
Our guide Russell was a master at getting us unstuck.
Swamp, sand, hole, you name it. We became well acquainted with the jack.
One thing that you’ll love, although it’s a bit nerve-wracking at first: How close you get to the animals.
A pride of six lions 15 feet away? With no windows on your jeep? No problem.
No problem, that is, as long as you’re sitting down. Stand up in the jeep and you’ll see six pairs of eyes suddenly snap in your direction. It has something to do with the animals seeing you as part of the vehicle until you make an effort to separate yourself (by standing up or getting out) that draws their interest.
Wilderness Safaris has a number of small planes that they use to shuttle passengers between camps as they aren’t many roads in this part of the country.
Zambia - Tongabezi Lodge
We used a travel agent to book the Botswana safari and the hotel for the three days we spent in Zambia. That agent has subsequently retired so I feel ok telling you about her hotel and safari selections.
Tongabezi Lodge is exceptional. The single most exotic place I’ve ever stayed. It, like much of touristy Africa, is shockingly expensive, but it was so worth the splurge. We stayed in one of five open air chalets on Sindabezi Island. They shuttled you down the river on a boat from the main lodge. There is a private kitchen on the island and all meals are served family style on the outdoor patio.
Each chalet is secluded from the others and directly on the water.
Everything, with the exception of the toilet, is open to the elements.
Drinking water, champagne, a personal valet (!), and mosquito candles are provided fresh each night.
Like most of the places we visited, mosquito nets were a necessity.
I took advantage of that tub every single night. Especially as it came with a cold bottle of champagne.
Botswana - Wilderness Safaris
First, a note about travel costs.
A close family friend has traveled to Africa many times and had some sage advice for us before we began planning our trip:
There are two kinds of safari travel in Africa: a) self-catering parks that are open to everyone and b) private reserves that cap their visitor numbers, but charge exorbitant fees.
South Africa, Tanzania, and Kenya have done an amazing job of appealing to many visitors and it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to visit their parks. A guide is not even a requirement for many of the larger areas. This appealed to us, especially as we originally wanted to include a climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) in our trip. Still want to do that, someday.
The drawback to this type of travel is that you might run into this:
 |
| Image via Huffington Post. - Tanzania |
Our friend actually steered us towards Botswana, because they’ve gone entirely in the opposite direction. Most of their land is held by the government in managed reserves that they rent out to private companies on a long term basis. Numbers of visitors are capped by the lease agreement and a guide is required at all times. The benefit is that you have vast tracts of land occupied by very few people -you have the place entirely to yourself. Botswana has argued that it's significantly better for the animals and the environment as there are fewer people and consequently less needed infrastructure. The downside is that it’s shockingly expensive, as they’ve got to make up for fewer revenue-generating people.
But the solitude was delicious. Imagine days of trekking through the bush, bumping down dirt roads, and enjoying a sun dower besides a quiet river. Only a few other times during our 8-day safari did we run into another jeep.
 |
| Morning tea by the river |
The tour company that we used was called Wilderness Safaris and they were excellent. They lease several private reserves throughout Botswana and they even have their own airline to shuttle visitors between camps.
We journeyed on their cheapest adventure safari.Camps are spartan and composed of military tents and a large jeeps. More luxurious safaris are available; some of their camps come equipped with private cabanas, plunge pools, and private jeeps/guides.
Additionally, we were on a group tour which is always a bit of a risk as you never know who you’ll end up with. We lucked out and scored an awesome group of Aussies and Germans. Our guide Russell, was South African, and all the local guides were from Botswana.
Our accommodations ranged from movable military tents at Linyanti to the more permanent structures (see below) at Selinda Camp.
Beds were simple cots with down duvets (it gets cold at night) and a few camp chairs/hammocks.
Ready for a shower? Fill up your bucket.
My single best piece of advice for safaris in Africa: find one that has an ensuite bathroom attached to your tent. You’ll probably, at some point, get sick with a GI tract malady and it’s exceptionally nice to have a bathroom near at hand. Shared pit toilets are definitely not ideal. Our camp at Linyanti had outhouses; but Selinda Camp (where Chris got sick) was blessed with a private restroom.
The more rustic military tents. Washing day.
Meals are frequently served outside and all safaris usually include a morning tea and a sundowner served while out in the bush.
A daily routine is typically set up as follows:
Quick breakfast
Early morning game drive, including a mid-morning stop for tea
Lunch
Siesta
Late Afternoon/Early Evening game drive, walk, or boat trip
Long, leisurely dinner
Possible night time game drive
To accommodate our large group of seven, we had an extended jeep that was open on the sides but equipped with an essential overhead canopy. There was ample leg room and a cooler (with luke-warm beer) in back.
We liked it, but it got stuck a lot, likely due to that long wheel base.
Eventually we stopped counting the number of times we piled out to begin a dig-out.
Our guide Russell was a master at getting us unstuck.
Swamp, sand, hole, you name it. We became well acquainted with the jack.
One thing that you’ll love, although it’s a bit nerve-wracking at first: How close you get to the animals.
A pride of six lions 15 feet away? With no windows on your jeep? No problem.
No problem, that is, as long as you’re sitting down. Stand up in the jeep and you’ll see six pairs of eyes suddenly snap in your direction. It has something to do with the animals seeing you as part of the vehicle until you make an effort to separate yourself (by standing up or getting out) that draws their interest.
Wilderness Safaris has a number of small planes that they use to shuttle passengers between camps as they aren’t many roads in this part of the country.
It’s not often that the pilot will also load your luggage.
Overall, we loved our trip and would gladly travel again with Wilderness Safaris. The food was a mix of mostly European fare with occasional local specialties. It was excellent and very fresh. The guides were exceptional, in terms of their local wildlife, societal, and geologic knowledge. Russell, in particular, was a gem.
In fact, I’m itching to do their Namibia adventure.
Zambia - Tongabezi Lodge
We used a travel agent to book the Botswana safari and the hotel for the three days we spent in Zambia. That agent has subsequently retired so I feel ok telling you about her hotel and safari selections.
Tongabezi Lodge is exceptional. The single most exotic place I’ve ever stayed. It, like much of touristy Africa, is shockingly expensive, but it was so worth the splurge. We stayed in one of five open air chalets on Sindabezi Island. They shuttled you down the river on a boat from the main lodge. There is a private kitchen on the island and all meals are served family style on the outdoor patio.
Each chalet is secluded from the others and directly on the water.
Everything, with the exception of the toilet, is open to the elements.
Drinking water, champagne, a personal valet (!), and mosquito candles are provided fresh each night.
Like most of the places we visited, mosquito nets were a necessity.
I took advantage of that tub every single night. Especially as it came with a cold bottle of champagne.
Activities include boat tours, lunch on a deserted island, and a tour of the local village. Trips into Livingstone can also be arranged.
By far our favorite activity was our day trip to Victoria Falls and a plunge into the Devil’s Pool, which you can read about here.
Africa is the trip of a lifetime. I am so grateful that we had the opportunity to visit. One day I’d also like to bring Ben and Emma along as it would be a fantastic trip for (slightly older) kids.
xo,
Sonja
More Africa:
Friday, March 21, 2014
Emma
Not surprisingly, things in our house are pretty crazy at the moment. I haven’t had much time to talk about our little girl as Ben is taking up the majority of our energy. Time to rectify the situation.
Emma - Two Months
Our wee piglet is a growing babe. All the newborn clothes are packed up and awaiting another wrinkled, wailing bundle of joy. There is a sense of melancholy that goes along with packing up of too-small garments. On one hand I’m happy that’s she a healthy, growing girl, on the other, she is no longer our tiny little newborn with her kitten cries. That stage is gone forever and we won’t, in all likelihood, have another. Hence the melancholy.
Em has also lost most of her newborn hair, with the exception of a few random tufts around her ears and the back of her head. For the past few mornings I’ve picked her out of the crib and there is a flurry of soft hair that rains back down onto the sheet. The new growth is a very light, light brown, almost blond. She has those same chubby cheeks and blue eyes of her brother but her hair is definitely her own. It’s soft and shiny and we frequently find ourselves petting her head, just to feel it.
Emma is a calm and happy baby and she’s sleeping 5-6 hours at a time. I’ll have to remind myself how fantastic this stretch is, as I’m sure it won’t last. New skills, teething, or colds always mess with the peaceful nights. For for now, it’s heavenly.
Our favorite thing about Emma is how her whole face smiles. This lady owns the toothless grin. Her eyes close, her nose wrinkles, and her smile is huge. We love it and we love her. Grateful to have this little girl.
xo,
Sonja
Monday, March 17, 2014
Kelsey Creek Farm
Ben’s preschool took a field trip to Kelsey Creek Farm last week. The farm is a sweet surprise as it’s tucked within a residential area of Bellevue, only five minutes from the main downtown business core. Once a working farm, it is now owned by the City of Bellevue and is home to a nice assortment of horses, sheep, pigs, and small fowl. Visitors are free to wander between the pastures; tours are also offered to school groups and birthday parties.
Emma and I joined Ben’s schoolmates as chaperones on this adventure.
My Dears, it was pure chaos. Imagine twenty 3-year-olds zipping into a paddock to pet the pony. Ben was in his element: he fell into the stream within five minutes of our arrival and then spent the remainder of the trip galavanting around with his buddies. They’re a mischievous lot too; pair your kid with a friend and they’ll automatically ignore all requests and commands to follow directions. Our pup Bailey does this too, on occasion. We call it "selective deafness”. Ben and Bailey are experts.
Our tour included a bit of pony petting, visits with the pigs and small animals, and a sheep feeding session. We also did some wool carding and the kids had an art project in the barn. There is a playground at the bottom of the hill and a stream, should your child be in for a bit of wading (or swimming, if you’re my son).
xo,
Sonja
If You Go: Kelsey Creek Farm
Kelsey Creek Farm is located at 410 130 Pl SE, Bellevue, Washington
The farm is free and is open from 9:30 to 3:30. On April 26th the farm is hosting their annual Sheep Shearing festival. More information and driving directions can be found here.
Weekend Trip: Leavenworth
Hello My Dears!
I hope you had a fantastic weekend. We went east of the mountains to the wee little Bavarian village of Leavenworth to get a little snow play in before the winter is official over. Ben has been asking to ‘go to the snowy mountains’ for the two months. The town itself is snow-free but there was plenty to be had at nearby Lake Wenatchee State Park and the mountain passes.
From Seattle we headed northeast to Monroe before hooking up with Highway 2 and heading over Stevens Pass.
This is definitely the tail-end of the ski season: the snow is on its way out and Spring will (hopefully) be here shortly.
The sledding hill at Wenatchee State Park is pretty tame. It’s great for the toddler set but older sledders might be happier at Snoqualmie.
Bring your own sleds and be sure to read the parking fee signs carefully as the payment policies have recently changed. Parking passes can be purchased in the parking lot.
Practicing for PyeongChang Winter Olympics 2018.
A trip to the mountains wouldn’t be complete without a good snowball fight. Unfortunately Ben neglected to tell the other sledders that they were participants and he managed to tag one kid as he was trudging back up the hill.
Ben had a personal hand-warmer. Life is tough for the toddlers, eh?!
This was Emma’s first snow experience. She was unimpressed.
It’s a pretty drive from Lake Wenatchee down to Leavenworth as you’re following the Icicle River (a great summer float on tubes).
At last! Leavenworth! You can just see the top of Emma’s head peaking out of my coat; she was content to snooze away the afternoon as we walked through town.
We started off the evening with some proper German food at Munchen Haus. We tried the brats while Ben opted for the pretzel. It reminded us of the time in Germany when Chris and I requested cheese with our pretzels at the local beer garden. Evidently the cheese sauce is an American adaptation as they provided a few slices of cheese on the side, accompanied with several odd looks. Those crazy Americans!
Major props to our hotel, The Bavarian Lodge, which was located conveniently across from the main town park. The hotel staff was exceptionally friendly and helpful. They had our room ready early and a crib (and bedding) was provided for Emma, free of charge. Ben and I also spent an hour in the pool, which was a delightful 86 degrees, great even for the littlest and skinniest of toddlers.
The hot breakfast included in the room rate was magnificent. They’re currently constructing an additional wing to the hotel that should be finished within the next few months.
On Sunday morning we ate a quick breakfast and then went south to Cle Elum before hooking up with I-90 and going over Snoqualmie Pass.
We found a quiet trailhead so Ben could practice a bit of cross country skiing. This will be an activity better suited for next year but he was delighted to try them out before the snow is gone.
The nice thing about Leavenworth is it’s only 2.5 hours away so the travel time home to Seattle is pretty painless. We’ll definitely have to go back this summer to catch the harvest and do a bit of tubing on the river.
xo,
Sonja
If You Go To Leavenworth
Activities
Sledding: Wenatchee State Park.Costs: Discovery Pass + $20 Daily Snopark Pass. The sledding hill is perfect for the smaller tykes; older kids will likely find it too slow. Nordic skiing and snowshoeing trails also available.
Horse Drawn Sleigh Rides (Subject to snow levels. Call first)
Dog Sled Rides (Subject to snow levels. Call first)
Gingerbread Factory
Leavenworth Winter Sports Club (cross country skiing and sledding hill)
Things to do on the way out to Leavenworth:
Barclay Lake Hike (near Baring, WA, on Highway 2). A great hike for little ones, with little elevation gain and a beautiful lake at the end. Forest Pass required. (Buy one at the Baring General Store, near the turnoff for the trailhead)
Snoqualmie Sledding (off of I-90) Reservations recommended. $22/adult.
Monroe Reptile Zoo. This is another on-the-way-there activity off of Highway 2 in Monroe. The BBQ joint out front in the old school bus is also great!
Stay
Bavarian LodgeDouble Queen Rooms from $172 (including taxes). Fantastic kid-friendly hotel with excellent customer service, outdoor heated pool/hot tub, cribs available (free of charge), movie rentals (free of charge), and a sumptuous hot breakfast.
Nosh
München HausWhen in Leavenworth one must eat at a German restaurant, right? Featuring brats, pretzels, and lots of cold brews. $.
Any of the ice cream shops. Bonus points for a gelato shop.
Zeke’s Drive In (Off of Highway 2, near Gold Bar). A great on-the-way lunch stop.
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