Friday, June 05, 2015

A Night On The Town

When my mother offered to have the kids stay at her house for a slumber party, I accepted, as they say, with alacrity. Chris was on the East Coast for work, Emma was teething, and Ben was perfecting his signature “You Can’t Make Me” attitude that infects every preschooler on occasion. In short, I was maxed out, in a way that anyone with young children will immediately understand. 

That afternoon, in a moment of pure serendipitous luck, The Edgewater Hotel in downtown Seattle called to see if we’d be interested in spending the night at their iconic Elliott Bay establishment. 

Why, yes. Will you let me come this minute?

I refuse to use the word ‘staycation’ but given that blissful-night-away-from-screaming-toddlers is a bit verbose, we’ll just settle for ‘exceptional mini vacation’. 


The view from our room. Anyone interested in a dip?


The Edgewater Hotel is where my beloved godmother Laurie was married when I was 10 years old. I was so excited for her upcoming nuptials that I magnanimously offered to serenade the bride and her father on clarinet as they walked down the aisle during the ceremony. In a move that will perfectly illustrate how much I adore my godmother, Laurie graciously accepted, despite knowing full well the extent of my clarinet skills. 

My Dears, I’m quite sure that such a rousing rendition of Hot Cross Buns has never before reverberated through the hallowed halls of the Edgewater's banquet room. 

Fortunately, I wouldn’t know. 

To hear Laurie recount the tale, I called her up a few days before the wedding to tell her that my musical masterpiece wasn’t quite ready, and that perhaps she’d best settle for the traditional wedding march after all. I would be happy to be a flower girl, however.  

 In case you were wondering, I killed it in the flower girl department.


Anyway, suffice to say, it’s been a few years since I’ve been at the Edgewater so we were happy to accept their offer. We dropped the kids off at my mom’s house and made a beeline downtown. 


I had grand plans for our little get-away that included a walk down the waterfront promenade, a trip to the aquarium, a ride on the Seattle Great Wheel, and a mosey through Pike Place. I even looked into Riding The Ducks. You know, all the touristy things you aren’t supposed to do because you live here and have to maintain your local coolness factor. 


That is, until I saw that our room came equipped with an old claw foot tub and a fire place. Ahem. Sometimes the best laid plans are meant to be discarded in favor of a good soak and a magazine. Especially if they’re not going to be interrupted by screaming toddlers. 




By the way, that wee beastie peering out from in front of the fireplace is a faux bear footstool, much better than an actual specimen, in my humble opinion. When we first walked in, I thought they’d given us the wrong room; one that was already occupied by another hotel guest and his pet. But no, it’s thoroughly fake. And they can be purchased in the gift shop, incidentally.

We did make it out to the Olympic Sculpture Park for a nice little pre-dinner amble and you should definitely head that way if you haven't been by recently. But we couldn’t tarry for long as we had reservations at Six Seven and is doesn’t do to be late when food is headed in your direction. 



Being hardy Pacific Northwesterners, we opted for the exterior Bay-side deck. It was gorgeous out and the sun was blazing down behind the Olympic Mountains. Fifteen minutes into the main course however, the sun officially set, the wind came up, and we froze. 





At which point the staff turns on the heaters and brings out blankets (!) for us poorly-clothed diners. Decadent, no?! 



But I’m getting ahead of myself. Chris and I usually lean towards seafood for appetizers: roasted Penn Cove mussels with caramelized onions and smoked bacon, followed by a soft Dungeness crap and shrimp cake. Scrumptious. The mussels were some of the best I’ve had in a very long while.






Chris continued the seafood trend by ordering the seared scallops with wild mushrooms for his entrĂ©e.  I opted for an enormous braised lamb shank with gnocchi and root vegetables. It was fantastic...and I had leftovers for both lunch and dinner the next day. Always a win, yes?!



I wish we could say we headed out to party the night away at local Seattle bars and clubs...but a good snooze for a sleep-deprived parent is not to be missed. 

The next morning, Chris walked up the hill to his office while I went off to collect the munchkins from Grandma’s house. A quick but delightful intermission from daily life. 


xo, 

Sonja

My Dears, this post was sponsored by the Edgewater Hotel. As always, all opinions are exclusively our own.









Sunday, March 23, 2014

Africa Safari - Resources (Zambia and Botswana)

I’m in the process of updating my travel pages and decided that a list of resources for our Africa trip would be useful. We had a great experience and would definitely recommend both the Zambia hotel and the Botswana safari guide.

Botswana - Wilderness Safaris

First, a note about travel costs.

A close family friend has traveled to Africa many times and had some sage advice for us before we began planning our trip:

There are two kinds of safari travel in Africa: a) self-catering parks that are open to everyone and b) private reserves that cap their visitor numbers, but charge exorbitant fees.

South Africa, Tanzania, and Kenya have done an amazing job of appealing to many visitors and it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to visit their parks. A guide is not even a requirement for many of the larger areas. This appealed to us, especially as we originally wanted to include a climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) in our trip. Still want to do that, someday.

The drawback to this type of travel is that you  might run into this:
Image via Huffington Post. - Tanzania
As in, lots of people.

Our friend actually steered us towards Botswana, because they’ve gone entirely in the opposite direction. Most of their land is held by the government in managed reserves that they rent out to private companies on a long term basis. Numbers of visitors are capped by the lease agreement and a guide is required at all times. The benefit is that you have vast tracts of land occupied by very few people -you have the place entirely to yourself. Botswana has argued that it's significantly better for the animals and the environment as there are fewer people and consequently less needed infrastructure. The downside is that it’s shockingly expensive, as they’ve got to make up for fewer revenue-generating people.

But the solitude was delicious. Imagine days of trekking through the bush, bumping down dirt roads, and enjoying a sun dower besides a quiet river. Only a few other times during our 8-day safari did we run into another jeep.
Morning tea by the river

The tour company that we used was called Wilderness Safaris and they were excellent. They lease several private reserves throughout Botswana and they even have their own airline to shuttle visitors between camps.



We journeyed on their cheapest adventure safari.Camps are spartan and composed of military tents and a large jeeps. More luxurious safaris are available; some of their camps come equipped with private cabanas, plunge pools, and private jeeps/guides.


 Additionally, we were on a group tour which is always a bit of a risk as you never know who you’ll end up with. We lucked out and scored an awesome group of Aussies and Germans. Our guide Russell, was South African, and all the local guides were from Botswana.


Our accommodations ranged from movable military tents at Linyanti to the more permanent structures (see below) at Selinda Camp.


Beds were simple cots with down duvets (it gets cold at night) and a few camp chairs/hammocks.


Ready for a shower? Fill up your bucket.



My single best piece of advice for safaris in Africa: find one that has an ensuite bathroom attached to your tent. You’ll probably, at some point, get sick with a GI tract malady and it’s exceptionally nice to have a bathroom near at hand. Shared pit toilets are definitely not ideal. Our camp at Linyanti had outhouses; but Selinda Camp (where Chris got sick) was blessed with a private restroom.



The more rustic military tents. Washing day. 


Meals are frequently served outside and all safaris usually include a morning tea and a sundowner served while out in the bush. 


A daily routine is typically set up as follows:
Quick breakfast
Early morning game drive, including a mid-morning stop for tea
Lunch
Siesta
Late Afternoon/Early Evening game drive, walk, or boat trip
Long, leisurely dinner
Possible night time game drive



To accommodate our large group of seven, we had an extended jeep that was open on the sides but equipped with an essential overhead canopy. There was ample leg room and a cooler (with luke-warm beer) in back. 


We liked it, but it got stuck a lot, likely due to that long wheel base.


Eventually we stopped counting the number of times we piled out to begin a dig-out.


Our guide Russell was a master at getting us unstuck.


Swamp, sand, hole, you name it. We became well acquainted with the jack.



One thing that you’ll love, although it’s a bit nerve-wracking at first: How close you get to the animals.

A pride of six lions 15 feet away? With no windows on your jeep? No problem.

No problem, that is, as long as you’re sitting down. Stand up in the jeep and you’ll see six pairs of eyes suddenly snap in your direction. It has something to do with the animals seeing you as part of the vehicle until you make an effort to separate yourself (by standing up or getting out) that draws their interest.


 Wilderness Safaris has a number of small planes that they use to shuttle passengers between camps as they aren’t many roads in this part of the country.




It’s not often that the pilot will also load your luggage. 


Overall, we loved our trip and would gladly travel again with Wilderness Safaris. The food was a mix of mostly European fare with occasional local specialties. It was excellent and very fresh. The guides were exceptional, in terms of their local wildlife, societal, and geologic knowledge. Russell, in particular, was a gem. 

 In fact, I’m itching to do their Namibia adventure. 



Zambia - Tongabezi Lodge

We used a travel agent to book the Botswana safari and the hotel for the three days we spent in Zambia. That agent has subsequently retired so I feel ok telling you about her hotel and safari selections.

Tongabezi Lodge is exceptional. The single most exotic place I’ve ever stayed. It, like much of touristy Africa, is shockingly expensive, but it was so worth the splurge. We stayed in one of five open air chalets on Sindabezi Island. They shuttled you down the river on a boat from the main lodge. There is a private kitchen on the island and all meals are served family style on the outdoor patio.


Each chalet is secluded from the others and directly on the water.


Everything, with the exception of the toilet, is open to the elements.


Drinking water, champagne, a personal valet (!), and mosquito candles are provided fresh each night.


Like most of the places we visited, mosquito nets were a necessity.


I took advantage of that tub every single night. Especially as it came with a cold bottle of champagne.


Activities include boat tours, lunch on a deserted island, and a tour of the local village. Trips into Livingstone can also be arranged. 

By far our favorite activity was our day trip to Victoria Falls and a plunge into the Devil’s Pool, which you can read about here


Africa is the trip of a lifetime. I am so grateful that we had the opportunity to visit. One day I’d also like to bring Ben and Emma along as it would be a fantastic trip for (slightly older) kids. 


xo, 

Sonja

More Africa: